For travelers and tourists, visiting Temples in the east is as common of an event as going to the super-market in North America – a weekly happening. Temples – and with it, religion – are huge parts of life here. Visiting these places of historical significance only seems right when on a trip. However, after visiting countless temples, from the gorgeous and ornate, to the nondescript and under-valued, I’ve come to find that it’s no longer my scene.

Some back-story: We were visiting the Temple of the Tooth Relic in Kandy, as it’s the storing place of Buddha’s tooth. After being smuggled centuries ago out of India in a woman’s hair, the tooth changed possession a number of times – going back and forth between India and Sri Lanka - before finally being stored safely at this four-story guarded white building. When we arrived at the Temple complex, we entered into the grounds of a Hindu temple – seemingly attached to the Tooth temple complex. We met a man who told us to make a donation to enter the temple grounds. Foolishly, we obliged (an absolute no-no for most tourists). We handed over 1000 S.L. Rupees (about 10 bucks) and started walking to the Temple.

Once at the gate to enter, a police officer requested our ticket. (Uh-oh) “We don’t have a ticket, Sir.” We say politely. “You must have ticket to enter Temple of Tooth.” At this point we realize we had been had. Having gone through this scenario a few times before at various ‘holy sites’ around Asia, we find another police officer and explain our story. “You show me who take money,” she says in Sri Lankan english. “One thousand rupees each to enter tooth relic.” We accompany the polite police officer to the Hindu temple where we were initially fooled. Upon entering the temple, all the guys working there can tell we weren’t happy. Without any back and forth from the police officer, the young man who had collected the donations pulls out a wad of cash from his breast pocket and hands back our 1000 rupees. “If you like God, you make donation.” Says the Police officer, where clunky heels and half-calf navy blue socks. “To enter Tooth Relic, 1000 rupees each.”

While we feel better about recouping our cash, we’re still unsettled by the experience. And to add to the joy (not), the drunken man is now following us to the temple, explaining how the man who took our ‘donation’ was unstable and sick in the head. We pay our 2000 rupees to enter the respected and historic temple of the tooth. To enhance our experience inside, the local man decides to take us on a ‘special tour’ because it’s important for him to show foreigners the temple’s history and beauty. “No, sir. We really don’t require your help. We’ll be fine.” We explain in a polite, but firm manner. As if we didn’t even say a word, he continues on with his ‘tour.’ Talking incoherently, stumbling upstairs, and bumping into tourists and walls. “Where from?” He asks for the 50th time, driving home the point that he is in fact trashed. “Germany, USA and Canada.” We say as a joke. “Oh,” he responds, “very nice places.”

After an hour of wandering around seeing beautiful pieces of history, we’re done with it. We feel odd and uncomfortable after our initial experience with the ‘donation man’ and no longer have the energy to continue on with this tipsy-tour guide. We walk out of the temple grounds, gather our shoes, and start to walk off. Seeing what was in the works with the drunken tour guide, I hand him 100 rupees (a dollar). His response was the lead to this blog… he also dropped in a few other kind words that I won’t go into here.

The lesson: There’s something about temples and places of holiness that bring out the best and worst in people. The best it offers is rich history, splendid decor and a place to connect with a higher power. The worst is what this blog is about. The worst is what makes it so painful and sad to visit these places that have historically depicted the best parts of a society. Tourism has created this ravenous feeding ground for locals to make an easy buck (there’s no admission cost for locals at any temple we’ve visited in Asia). This  scheme on tourists isn’t anything new. But it certainly does hurt and make one feel awfully vulnerable when trying to show cultural respect. I’ve experienced the same in Varanasi, India, at the burning ghats. As well as at countless other places of religious and spiritual significance, too long are the same stories to run-through here.

The bottom-line is: No more temples for this dude. I deeply respect people’s beliefs and the history that have shaped those beliefs and cultures, but I will no longer perpetuate this cycle of tourist chumming; for the sharks have ruined the sanctity of these formerly pristine waters.

~James